Friday, March 28, 2014

Sewing Notes: Hemming

Standard Sewing Instructions:  Hang any skirt with a bias hem out overnight (at least) or 24 hours (better) so that the fabric falls the way it's going to end up falling before you hem it - that way you don't end up with an uneven hem.

Why do you do this?  Because after 36 hours, this is what your hemline looks like on any loosely-woven or fine or sheer or true-bias-cut fabric.  This was evened up with scissors before I hung it.

My method for hemming really long skirts:

1) I stand in the hallway in front of the only full-length mirror in my house, sticking pins in and checking for evenness.
2) I take it out to the ironing board and true that up a bit - when you get it out there, you can see any lumps and bumps in your arc.  Iron it, pin it.
3)  New last night - I run a 3/8" hem from the folded edge, at the longest stitch length, then check to see if it's straight
4)  Trim excess fabric, fold up the hem, and sew.

It made a nice even hem and was much less heartache.  I used a basting stitch to run that first trial, just in case - but it worked.  

I did hem this by machine (!!) just because I'm forever putting my heel in my hand-hems and ripping them out.  Anyway linen likes topstitching and the blouse that goes with has some, so I figured we were good to go.

Only weird thing on this skirt is the hip seam wiggles.  I don't really know what's up with that - the zipper side is interfaced.  I might put in a stay-ribbon at the waist, see if it helps the hang.

Anyhow.  That's how I hem - and that's why you hang your skirts out overnight or more when dealing with certain fabrics/certain cuts.

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