Friday, July 25, 2014

Process: V 2267

Just notes as I go along... and a bit to show y'all what goes into making dresses "the right way".

Here's my mess, after I cut out all the pattern pieces and ironed them flat.


Tissue fitting the bolero.  Uh.  I have no earthly idea how this will work - tissue doesn't drape like fabric.  I figure another inch at the back seam and front seam will be a good start.  Seems to be folding for upper chest decrease already.   Hm.  (Tissue fitting for me mostly functions as a starting point to making a muslin/toile).
Front Bolero

Back Bolero



So.  Just to start - I took 10" off the hem.  Well, 10" everywhere but this piece - I took 9" off the hem here because I removed an inch from the top near the armpit.  I'm short and this is a change that nearly always happens.  This is the side front piece.  The only other piece to receive non-standard adjustments was the center-front - I added 6" total (3" on each side of the center fold).  I *will* be making adjustments to this pattern, but the idea is that I should be taking out fabric from the muslin rather than trying to cut new pieces so I can patch it in.  Oh - I left the hem width the same, even though I shortened it.  If I were interested in keeping the proportions of the dress the same, I'd adjust that too... but I like a wide hem, so I left those alone.  Just drew a straight line from the wide bit you see there up to the waist or so.

I increased the seam allowance to 1" on every piece, which is the "couture standard".  I traced off each piece rather than cutting and pasting - this pattern is a nice one, and it is out of print.  I've mentioned the difference in how I treat patterns based on how nice/rare they are?  Yeah.  This one is meant to stay unslashed and untaped - I can't replace it, at least easily/cheaply, so it's worth the extra work.

As of now, I have the dress pieces all marked and cut out.  Before I do anything else to them, I will thread-trace the alleged seamlines (so I know what I've changed).  I left the hem allowance at 2".  

Didn't get to the bolero ... I'm getting tired and the cutting lines on that are a little crazy.  Don't do fiddly things when you're tired!!!

Oh, I don't do this muslin stuff to the facings and whatnot.  I'll adjust those based off of the outer changes, after I'm done.

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