Thanks for pestering me to make the sleeves better, Maeve.
I actually *used* some of the tricks I know... and I ended up with a sleeve that I knew fit as soon as I put it on (well away from any mirrors).
I was trying to put in an elbow dart, which looked odd... but ended up taking a tuck out at the elbow (instead of taking the extra length out at the wrist). That helped enormously. And then I made it into a two-piece sleeve - which allows for better fitting and a button detail at the cuff.
Adjusted the shoulder to the bit I'd already done, only properly... and I have a sleeve that inserted without gathers. This bodes well for the final run and a smooth sleeve cap (a puckered cap is a tell-tale sign of homemade goods).
I need to take out the extra inch I'd put in on the front, it's too much. Then *one* row of three buttons down, for a slightly asymmetrical line (always flattering on me - I drape my belts at that line) and some hem/cuff detailing and we're GTG.
In other words, I think I might cut fabric tomorrow.
Ignore the slight flop at the top of the shoulder, I'm not wearing a sleeved garment underneath. I'm pretty sure that will fill in nicely with a sweater, which we will all assume I'd be wearing underneath an overcoat.