Thursday, October 16, 2014

Sleeves on the muslin

I got my final muslin put together.  I put an extra 1/2" on the already 1" extra on the shoulders, which was too much, so then I took it off.

I'm wondering about the scale of the collar here - seems a bit small (remember the seam allowances.  Seems about right as it is - I think I"ll add some width).  Not sure what's going on with the back collar - I've got a nice "roll line" going - and I'm not sure I want to have quite that much roll line quite this early in the game.  Must look at instructions and pictures on envelope *carefully*.

Anyway.  Got it finished, took some pix.  Put it on Dolly, and am going to leave it there to marinate for a bit while I put some more work into the peasant blouse.  Working the neck embroidery now.

Pix - please feel free to complain about the fit, I'd rather have a word of caution now than be less than satisfied when all is said and done.

Definitely buttons have to happen... now, should there be a belt too?  (This pattern is a fabric pig, but I have a LOT of fabric, a belt would be easily gotten).


  1. Replies
    1. Thank you, although this is just my son's old set of sheets. The coat will be charcoal with a golden brocade lining.

  2. I think you're right about the collar - only I'm no sure if it's the proportion that's off or if it's that it's so high up on your chest. The other thing is (and this could just be because I'm looking at it from a photo), but the top buttons don't look as though they're far enough under the bust (they almost look like they're on the underside of the bust - albeit at the bottom. Again, could just be the photo.

  3. Heathie, I just went back and looked at the pics of the dresses you made earlier (those with the bolero and showcasing your awesome necklaces - both of which I covet!! - oh, I covet the dresses too!).

    I don't know that I like this on you so much. Maybe because it's long? Or something. Maybe its the sleeves? I'm not as crazy over this silhouette on you. Can't put my finger on it.

    1. Well, this is an overcoat, so I have to have a lot more ease in this than I usually put in my garments. That's probably the first think you're responding to visually - and I agree. I'll have to figure out how to detail this so it doesn't look like I'm wearing Mommy's Nightgown.

      Shouldn't the buttons be high up? How else is the jacket going to stay closed? (Those are just pins - they can be moved, which is the point.)

      Hm. I wonder if an elbow dart would help the sleeve. Those are baggy, and that's not helping at all.

    2. You know, I got the impression you were going to wear this as a dress (!!!!)

      I'm glad you said nightgown, because that was my exact impression - it's missing the fitted silhouette (I seem to recall the pattern was somewhat fitted) - and I know you're wearing it over clothes, so there needs to be some slack.

      Now that I'm thinking "coat" and not "dress", I can see your point about the buttons - but in that case, can the neckline be a little more generous with the "vee"?

      I'm not articulating this well.

    3. No, that helps and was what I was thinking. I looked at some finished coats and the ones that really have a good X going visually (I need all the help I can get) have much wider/lower lapels.

      What's your position on belts?

      Assume 1) I know nothing about overcoats whatsoever 2) that when I have inclement weather, it will be windy.

    4. PS I'm going to invest in some horsehair braid for the hem, so it will stand out more.

    5. Another thought - brought on by the length - maybe frogging instead of buttons - and if you did two rows close together - so, four total - up high - might give it an empire-ish look - maybe?

      I don't care for belted coats, personally, because I'm short-waisted and they always looks stupid on me LOL. I do like those belt-y things in the back, though - and that might also give an enhanced shape?

      If you used frogging, you could carry that detail up the sleeve, wrist to elbow - that would be very chic!

    6. Frogging might work. I'm long-waisted, so belts are my buddies - just functionality. Hmmmmm.

    7. See, I'm back again.

      I think the sleeves are really distracting me from seeing how the coat actually fits.

      I've also been thinking about buttons. How about a large, quite oversized button instead of the double-breasted look? Maybe that's what's throwing me off.

      You can tell me to pack sand any time now.

    8. No that's useful. I changed a couple of things 1) I unsewed the collar pieces, because I'm a dork and didn't read the directions. They need widening, but are MUCH better now. 2) I put one row of three 1" buttons down, which was good. No belt, that did weird things with the bulk.

      I am think of adding some interest at hem and cuffs.

      Sorry about the polka-dot sheet-sleeves. ;) I don't know how much I can do with those, unless I redraft to a two-piece sleeve entirely, which I may do. (I've never done it before, but when does that stop me? - and I have instructions.... famous last words, really).

    9. Would it be completely weird if I did a lace applique?

  4. Where would you put the applique?


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